The Study of Local Wisdom Usage in the Way of Life at Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani’s Identity Silk Production, the Lukkeaw Silk with Ebony Dye

Abstract

           This research aims 1) to study local wisdom and the development of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani 2) to study the relationship between the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving and the way of life of community people in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani and 3) to study the method to conserve local wisdom of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani. The instruments were in-depth interview and participant observation form. Data were analyzed by using content analysis by identifying words or messages from participants’ opinions and interpreting, synthesizing, and analyzing logically. Analytic induction was used for conclusion. Discussion was made based on facts from situations, incidents, relationships, and significant.

          The finding revealed that 1) The results of the study in local wisdom and the development of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani were classified into two aspects including local wisdom aspect and the development of production process aspect. Firstly, there were 5 issues in local wisdom aspect. The first issue, the history of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving: the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving was originated by the villagers who normally weaved silk to use in their household. It was called “Pha Mai Yeab” (stepped silk), according to the process that the weaver steps on the harness, and this silk weaving consisted of 5 harnesses. After getting the silk, it was dyed with ebony in cool dyeing process according to their local wisdom. Then, it was cut and tailored as short sleeve shirt, long sleeve shirt, with and without collar and also black Kha Kob trousers (or Kha Kuay trousers – loose pattern trousers). It was dyed black because it was not easy to get dirty, and with this process it was called “Sue Mai Dum (black silk)”. Nowadays, villagers still weave black silk and loose pattern trousers; therefore, silk is worn in every occasion. The second issue, unique products of Ban Nong Bo: there were many unique products such as pattern with dyed ebony silk, Khit-pattern blanket, Eel-pattern silk, wax castle pattern Mud mi silk (Ikat silk), star pattern silk, and silk ribbon (for hem of skirt). The third issue, outstanding uniqueness: the silk was handmade that was originated by local wisdom through the whole process consisting of growing mulberry plant, feeding silk worm, drawing silk, weaving with loom, and dyeing with natural color. The uniqueness of the community silk was soft, lightweight, silky, cool in summer and warm in winter, and no pollution to the environment and wearer. The fourth issue, silk worm feeding: the process of silk worm feeding was not different from other communities that it started with preparing mulberry leaves, incubating silk worm eggs, breeding silk worm and feeding them, growing silk worm to caterpillar, put the worm in bamboo basket to incubate cocoon, and drawing silk from the cocoon. The fifth issue, local wisdom of silk dyeing: cool process was normally used. After dyeing, the silk was normally scented by using scent grass, Ngai Camphor (Blumea balsamifera), turmeric, and polyscias. If they wanted to make the silk softened, they would soak the silk in mud. Secondly, there were 3 issues in the development of production process aspect. The first issue, production materials: nowadays stone mortar was used instead of wooden mortar, stainless pot instead of clay pot, and stainless and plastic bucket instead of wooden bucket. Moreover, stainless loom was used nowadays, and it can make the beautiful quality silk similar to the traditional one. The second issue, dyeing process: in the past, natural colors from Khe (Moraceae), lac, and indigo were used. However, Khe (Moraceae), lac, and indigo were expensive, so ebony was used instead. However, nowadays ebony is also rarely found, so some households use chemical color instead. The third issue, the differences of the community silk: Ban Nong Bo the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk was made by using 5 harnesses that made the the Lukkeaw Silk pattern embossed in both front and back sides of silk. This process also made rhombus pattern continuously along the whole fabric. Other communities normally used 4 harnesses that made only one side embossed pattern, and the rhombus pattern was not continuous. 2) The relationship between the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving and the way of life of community people in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani consisted of 3 issues. Firstly, the relationship among people: it was taught that everyone must be able to weave silk, and it became tradition of people in the community from generation to generation. Moreover, in the past, they weaved silk to use in their household and for exchanging with salt. However, nowadays they just weave silk for sale to make income. Secondly, the relationship between people and the way of life: as the community is the silk weaving community, wearing silk is normal practice. People wore silk in occasions and also in everyday life such as to work in their filed because it’s comfortable and cool. People mostly tailored long sleeve shirt by hand. Male normally wore indigo short pants called “Pha Jub Khram (indigo dyed pants)”. Female normally wore silk skirt. People wore long sleeves shirt dyed with ebony called “black dyed ebony silk”. The tailor was most economic by avoiding leaving left fabric except tailoring round neck shirt that the neck must be cut off; however, the other parts such as back and sleeves were made from square fabric. The buttons were made from coins that were drilled two holes for threading silk. Thirdly, the relationship between people and culture: the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk was related to Klong Tum Dance (Tum drum dance). The dancers wore ebony silk, and the drummers wore ebony silk shirt and ebony silk loose pattern trousers. Moreover, wearing ebony silk reflected love and harmony of the local community. 3) The method to conserve local wisdom of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk weaving in Ban Nong Bo, Ubon Ratchathani were the silk weaving group practiced the youth in the community dance and weave the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk. Moreover, the community wanted to publicize their local wisdom of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk. They wanted to collect documents concerning the importance of the Lukkeaw Silk pattern with dyed ebony silk to create database for the local wisdom center to publicize to students and other people who are interested in. Therefore, the researcher designed booklets with the information from the results of the research and provided it to the community.